COLOUR FAQS | Kit and Clowder

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Colouring FAQs

Monthly Class FAQs

Payment Questions

Policies

Not sure where to start? All of my classes are beginner-friendly :)

Each one walks you through the basics like blending, shading, light source, and the why behind every step. You can jump into any class that catches your eye - there’s no set order! That said, my most recent monthly classes tend to be the most beginner-friendly, as my teaching style has evolved to make things even clearer and more confidence-boosting.

What’s the difference between Monthly and Shop Classes?

Monthly Classes are our most popular option. It’s a no-lock-in membership with a new class every month, plus a bonus class for every month you stay on (giving you buy 1 get 1 free!). These push you out of your comfort zone and help you grow quickly by covering techniques, colours, and textures you might not choose on your own (and that’s where we grow the most!). Think of it like dance class...even if you don’t love the music, the routine still teaches you something valuable.

Shop Classes are standalone favourites from my 11-year library - no membership needed. These rotate often and are perfect if you’re after a one-off project or want to revisit a past monthly release.

And remember: classes should challenge you! That’s how we grow. Progress over perfection always, and if you ever get stuck, every class includes free private tutoring to support you. Let’s get you colouring with confidence!

If you are brand new to colouring, the first thing you need to do is decide what you want to learn to colour with. Everyone is going to have their own personal favourites and they may not necessarily be your personal favourite :) So make sure when listening to advice that you ultimately choose what is best for you. BOTH mediums require patience, lots of practice, and lots of learning for you to master. So for a beginner - EITHER is really perfect, so long as you remember you won't learn instantly. It's going to take time whatever you end up deciding you want to learn. The best thing to do, is to think about which look you prefer out of the two mediums that you want to achieve. Then choose based on what you most want to learn. I recommend this rather than trying before buying because you can truly learn whatever you put your mind to with dedication and practice. Here are some pros and cons: Markers - generally more expensive upfront than pencils, but a lot cheaper in the long term if you get a refillable brand - lends toward brighter and stronger colours - Much much quicker to use than pencils - less control than pencils - you can't erase and restart if you make a mistake so they are a little less forgiving - you do not need a full set of markers from a brand to learn so please don't ever be deterred by this Pencils - Cheaper upfront, but more expensive long term - sets are cheaper to buy than singles - try to get the biggest set you can afford - takes a lot longer than markers to blend but you get so much more control over detail and can really take your time to focus on areas - Much more control over colour blends and colour creation Personally I first learned with markers and this will also be my first favourite. But that's just me :)

Marker Guide

There are many different brands of markers on the market. This guide focuses on some of the most popular and widely available options used by stampers and colourists. While there are many brands out there, these are the ones you'll most commonly see and find tutorials for in my classes.

In our Markers classes, we focus on:

Copic, Ohuhu (all classes from Dec 23 onwards), Spectrum Noir, Promarker

If you use other brands, don’t worry, you can still follow along using your own blends. My classes are designed to teach real art foundations that are not dependent on colour or brand - even a cheap brand will still be able to produce similar results :) But let's chat about the options and what is the best investment.

Please note I am not affiliated with any marker brands so my recommendations are not based on any bias. Please note companies like Ohuhu and Olo do regularly give content creators payment and free product for their recommendation.

Recommended nibs: I recommend brush and chisel (NOT bullet or fine). This is because a brush nib is the only nib that goes to a point and the others go to a circumference. Meaning, with practice, a brush will always give you the finest point. A chisel gives completely different effects and is great for covering large surfaces.

Copic

Professional-grade and considered the top of the range
358 colours available - great range of pastels, mids, and darks
Excellent blendability
Refillable and replaceable nibs
Available in Ciao, Sketch, and Original styles
Ciao and Sketch are most popular for colouring
Sketch markers hold more ink and come in more colours

Spectrum Noir

Mid-range price and quality. They don't blend as easily as Copic
168 colours available - larger gaps in their colour range may mean it is harder to blend
Bullet and chisel nibs (newer brush nibs sold separately)
Refillable with replaceable nibs, though these can be hard to find
Great option for beginners learning techniques

Promarker

Mid-range and budget-friendly
150 colours - good range of pastels and mids. Small range of browns.
Bullet and chisel nib (no brush nib)
Non-refillable, but nibs can be replaced
Also available in related styles like Flexmarkers (with brush nib) and Tria (3 nibs)

Ohuhu Honolulu Series

One of the best budget-friendly alternatives to Copic
320 colours - Lighter/pastel colour selection is limited making some blends difficult
Brush and bullet tip
Affordable and widely available online
Blendability is decent, but not as smooth as Copic
Refillable but can be hard to find or region locked
Comes in convenient sets; just be aware that many sets lack truly light blending tones
Pays/gives free product to a lot of influencers so please take this into consideration when getting reviews or advice from other artists

Olo Markers

Newer brand gaining popularity, but is region limited at this stage
Modular design: each pen is split into two halves that can be mixed and matched. (so two colours per marker). The aim is to save on how many markers you have to travel with
Offers 128 colours
Uses a unique ink delivery system that provides consistent flow
Brush nibs only
Refillable
Still growing in availability and colour range

Recommendations

My personal recommendation is still Copic markers - even though they are the most expensive, you are paying for the quality of the product. A lot of people are put off as they think they need all of the markers to learn and this is a big investment. But I still don't have a full set - you can learn anything with just one blend. A good idea is to get a blend in each colour family as then you can colour anything and then to slowly add from there. If you really do want to have them all and price is a big factor, I would recommend Ohuhu at this stage. But please be cautious - over my 11 years teaching I have seen many brands build a reputation and still close, leaving people with incomplete sets, no way to replace markers, and no refills. This is another reason why Copic takes my vote.

There are so many different brands of pencils on the market and it can be hard to know which ones are right for you. All of the techniques that you will learn for pencils are transferrable across all of the brands, however a better quality pencil will be easier to blend and contains higher amounts of pigment so is brighter.

When looking at which brand to try, it is best to buy a few singles in some of the brands so you can see how everything blends. It is good to look at a colour chart for each brand aswell and make sure you like the colours.

When purchasing, I recommend to buy the biggest set you can afford. Buying singularly is the most expensive, and if you buy a small set and wish to upgrade then you will end up with a lot of doubles.

We cover a wide range of brands. In our Pencils classes we cover Prismacolor, Spectrum Noir, and Polychromos. We cover a wider selection in our Monthly Classes including Spectrum Noir, Prismacolor, Polychromos, Derwent Artist, Derwent Colorsoft, Caran D'ache Luminance, and Lyra Rembrandt. If you don't have these brands, you can still learn from our classes with your favourite blends. Techniques do not change if colours do and I am always available to help with colour selection and alternatives if you don't have a large stash of supplies or prefer different colours.

Take a look below at some of the most popular brands of coloured pencils used for colouring:

Prismacolor

- 150 colours available - good range of pastels, earths, and brights - Available in sets and singularly

- Wax based = soft and creamy blend

- Don't hold the point as well as oil pencils and need sharpening often for detail work

- Need to learn how to sharpen properly as can break inside the core from pressure

- My personal favourite as I like the finish and colour range - Also available as Scholar (cheaper range but lower quality pigment) and Verithin (harder core made more for sketching and detail)

Polychromos

- 120 colours available - good greens and blues but lacking in pastels/low value earths - Available in sets and singularly

- Oil based = harder core

- Hold the point better if you are colouring and needing detail work, eg. i find them better personally for people and things like hair as the prismas lose their point too quick.

- Lay down a strong pigment, typically considered to have the brightest result

Spectrum Noir

- 120 colours available - good greens and yellows lacking in purples and pastels - Available only in packs of 24 and not singularly

- Wax and Oil Blend

- Harder than the Prismacolor, but not as bright as the Polychromos

Derwent Artist and Studio

- 120 colours in Artist (4mm round core) and 72 in Studio (3.4mm hexagonal core)

- Clay based = considered to be the hardest grade of pencils

- Holds a point well for fine detail work

- Typically known for good range of greens and browns (landscape work)

- Low lightfast quality and typically considered not as bright as Prisma or Polys

Derwent Coloursoft

- 72 colours available - same range as Studio

- Wax Based = Derwent's answer to the Prismacolor, however my experience is these aren't as creamy (good or bad depending on your preference)

- Soft pencil for creamy blending

- Some colours at risk of fading

Derwent has two colourless blender pencils; Hard burnisher and Soft Blender (speculated one from the coloursoft and one from the Studio range).

I cover a wide range of brands in my classes, though you can really use any brand. My classes focus on teaching real art foundations that are not brand or blend dependent. So please experiment, use what you have and learn first, rather than just adding more to your stash. More colours or expensive brands won't make you a better colourist - learning to use them will! :)

Here are the brands that I currently provide combos for with my classes:

Markers: Copic, Ohuhu (all classes after Dec 23), Spectrum Noir, Promarker

Pencils: Prismacolor, Polychromos, Derwent Artist, Derwent Colorsoft, Caran D'ache Luminance

Common Questions About Starting with Alcohol Markers (and My Honest Thoughts!)

These are just my personal opinions based on years of experience as a crafter and colourist. Use this as a guide, but always go with what feels best for you :)

Should I buy a cheaper brand or go all out? Start by trying a few markers from different brands at your local store if possible. Many people invest in one brand only to find they prefer another later. You can get great results with many brands. What matters most is finding what feels right in your hand and suits your style.

Should I start with single markers or sets? For beginners, I don’t recommend buying sets. They often include incomplete blends and push you to buy more right away. Instead, choose a few intentional blends with Highlights, Midtones, and Shadows. You’ll get better results and feel more confident starting out. You can find my favourite beginner blends on the Colour Blends page.

Which colours should I start with? There are no "beginner" colours—what matters is learning to use light and shade. In our realism-based classes, you’ll use a minimum of three markers per blend:

A light marker (Highlight)
A midtone marker
A dark marker (Shadow)

You might add more markers to soften blends or create new tones, but don’t worry—it all makes sense once you get started :)

Great starter colours:

Skin Blend
- Copics: E000, E00, E11, E13
- Spectrum Noir: FS2, FS4, FS9, TN4
- Promarker: Almond, Putty, Tan, Cinnamon
- Ohuhu: E010, E090, E160, E220

Brown Hair Blend
- Copics: E21, E25, E29
- Spectrum Noir: TN3, EB3, EB8
- Promarker: Vanilla, Cocoa, Walnut
- Ohuhu: E010, E280, E300, E310

Outfit Blend Choose your favourite colour from the Colour Blends section below.

You only need a few blends to start our classes...some students have completed whole classes using just one colour family! It truly doesn't change how the class is done and all that changes is the colour hue. So be brave to experiment.

Do I need to buy expensive paper straight away? Yes, paper makes a huge difference. The wrong paper can cause bleeding, poor blending, and wasted ink. Since ink is more expensive than paper, investing in the right surface saves you time, money, and frustration.

What’s next? Once you have your markers and paper, you’re ready! Browse some digital stamps from our partner companies or dive into one of our beginner-friendly classes. You’ll start learning proper techniques from day one.

One last thing... Colouring may seem simple, but what we do involves real art skills like light, shade, and form. It takes time and practice, but that’s the fun part! Progress is normal, and no one starts perfect. You’re not alone, we’re here to guide you every step of the way.

FOR THIS INFORMATION IN VIDEO FORMAT, please view my youtube video here

Have you ever wondered how Copic colour blends are created or how the numbering system works? There are so many differing explanations out there that it can be really overwhelming to know what is right or where to start. One thing I get asked about a lot are "beginner" blends - but what you may not know is that fewer markers do not always equal easier to colour or achieve the results you want. Copic actually have their own method for creating blends using their numbering system. This is widely considered to be the most effective and easiest way to get started with your markers, and to help you show depth in your colouring. It uses the theories of Lightsource, and helps us show where light is hitting an object (lightest colour), vs. where the shadows are (darkest colour). So let's take a look below to help you feel more confident creating blends! Find you learn best doing rather than reading? I have some blending exercise sheets for you to fill in over in our free Markers 101 class here.

👉What is the numbering system?

Copic created their numbering system to help us communicate Lightsource (light vs. shade) easily in our colouring. Lightsource is what gives objects depth - it shows where light comes down from a source (such as the sun or lights in a ceiling), and his the object, creating a highlight (light colour). We then have the midtone (the true colour of an object, neither affected by light or shade), and then the shadow (furthest from the light and represented by dark colours).

👉Second Number - MOST IMPORTANT

To help us communicate Lightsource, the most important number when looking at a marker is the SECOND number. The official Copic method for their markers is:

Markers ending between 0-3 are highlight colours,

Markers ending between 4-6 = midtone,

Markers ending between 7-9 = shadow.

When creating a blend, we want to try to have a minimum of 3 markers, each representing the highlight, midtone, or shadow.

👉First Number/Letter The letter is the Colour Family, which is broken down like a colour wheel - eg. B for Blue, BG = Blue Green, G = Green, YG = Yellow Green, Y = Yellow, YR = Yellow Red, R = Red, RV = Red Violet, V = Violet, BV = Blue Violet, E = Earth. The first number is the tone of the colour - naturally, markers that are all the same tone go best together, so an example blend using the method we just discussed, would be b91, b95, b99 - all b90s so we know the tone will all be the same, and one highlight (b91), midtone (b95), and shadow (b99). However! The more colours that are available in a run, the less gaps there are on your blending so the easier it is to get smooth. It's actually easier to blend with more markers. So Copic actually make b91, b93, b95, b97, b99. Less gaps between colours = easier to blend (see graphic below from my official Copic mat, showing their explanation of using more colours to achieve smoother blends).

When you go up in the first number, it doesn't necessarily mean that the marker is darker, but just that the tone is a little different. Eg. E21 is actually lighter than E11 - but it is slightly more yellow based. So we don't use this first number to determine what is darker or lighter than other markers.

👉You can mix and match the first number So you can see, what is most important is that second number - the first number can be mixed and matched to create colour blends, so long as you are following the rule of highlight, midtone, and shadow. For example, g21, g94, g99 is one of my favourite olive green combos. There is no low g90 colour made though, but the g21 is quite a light olive pastel green. Coupled with the deeper grey green in the g90s it looks lovely. Sometimes I even like to add a little YG11 - this is a light yellow green and can really brighten the highlights. And notice we've got a highlight, midtone, and shadow colour with that second number - YG11, G21, G94, G99. Sometimes some markers ending in the same number as others may be a little lighter or darker. It's a good idea to always test your blends first on a scrap sheet of blending card, or to fill in a blank colour chart so you can easily see which markers or lighter or darker straight away. 👉What if I want a light colour? Sometimes I see people say they don't want to work with "contrast" though as they want a light colour blend. It's important to note that there is a difference between contrast to show shadows vs. a dark blend. Keep in mind a white piece of paper - if you hold something above it, it leaves a dark shadow across to show the distance between these two objects, however the paper is still white. Learning about lightsource and how to convery this is how we help our colouring look realistic. If we want a lighter blend, we still use lightsource, but keep the darker colours to the shadows only and increase the amount of the lighter colours used.

There's a lot of information here and a lot of this may be new to you. It's totally normal to feel overwhelmed when taking in new theories. Revisit, practice, and it will get easier every time you go over it. Ready to start colouring? Check out our FREE Markers 101 Class at www.kitandclowder.com - select Class Rooms, then Markers 101. This free class has video tutorials and exercise sheets covering lightsource, blending, shading, skin, hair, and more and is available to everyone.

Alcohol Markers When using Alcohol Markers it is important to use a Bleedproof cardstock for blending, otherwise the ink disperses through the fibers of the paper very quickly making it not only hard to blend but it uses up your ink very quickly (and ink is more expensive than paper!). It is important to note that there is blending cardstock and blending paper - typically for this style of colouring and layering of the ink we use the cardstock, whereas the paper is more for washes of colour like for graphic/industrial design.

There are many different ranges available on the market and it is important to try a few as it can greatly impact on your colouring result. Here are a few of the most popular - Xpress It Blending Card - my favourite as I find it holds the most layers of ink

(Can be found in many craft stores and Amazon, however the cheapest I've found is Sir Stampalot in the UK, Amazon in the US, and Craft Online in Australia. This paper is cheapest if you are buying the 125 pack - it works out about half the price per sheet as opposed to the 20 pack)

- Perfect Colouring Paper - typically used by those in Europe who have trouble finding X-Press It, however I have not tested this myself

- Hammermil 100lb Cover Paper - Cryogen Iridescent - Neenah Solar White 110lb (cheaper alternative to XPress It though I find it holds less layers of inkso may compromise blendability. Recommend the 110lb over the 80lb)

- Spectrum Noir Marker Card (cheaper alternative to XPress it, though I find it holds less layers of ink so may compromise blendability). - Heavenly White 80# - Heavenly White 100#

- Heavenly White 120# - Ultimate Graphic 160gsm (available here)

All of these papers should be available on Amazon or at most craft stores, or places that sell markers.

A great place to purchase your papers is Paper Temptress in the USA. They ship worldwide and even sell a Copic Sampler Pack which includes a few different shades of different blending cards for you to try and choose your favourite. Use code Alyce20 to receive 20% off your purchase! Watercolour Mediums For watercolour mediums it is best to use a watercolour paper so that the paper doesn't "pill". A few common types are: - Canson XL Watercolor (economical and good quality) - Fabriano Artistico 140lb Hot Press Extra White - Langton 140lb Extra Smooth (Hot pressed) Water Colour Paper Pencils

For a video showing the differences of blending on different papers, please view my video on youtube here.

There are two different types of paper that you should consider when colouring with pencils and it depends on your blending method. For typical pencil to pencil blend (or using a colourless blender pencil), it is recommended to use a paper with a "tooth" (texture). This is because when you layer up multiple colours to create a blend, the pigment sits in the texture of the page and the eye reads the two colours as blending together. If you are blending using a solvent (eg. Gamsol or Odourless Mineral Spirits), it is best to use a smooth cardstock as you are breaking down the pigment into a paint-link surface. In this case we could just use our standard marker paper. There are so many different types of drawing papers that will work well for pencils. Keep in mind that a watercolour paper, even though it has a tooth, is considered a bit rough for pencil work and will take longer to blend. Below are a few common paper types:

- Canson Mi Teintes in Pastel White (sometimes referred to as just Pastel in European countries) My personal favourite. It is a double sided paper so suits a large variety of pencil types. The smoother side for pencils and rougher for pastels and hard pencils. - Canson Drawing 220 (or Canson C A Grain in some countries) More economical but a bit rougher. Make sure you get Drawing 220 (220gsm) as there is a thinner one available.

- Strathmore Color Pencil

Good economical paper easy to get around the world, although a little on the smoother side - Stonehenge 100% cotton - good quality but more economical than some of the other cotton blends - Illustration Board More rigid and durable for heavy layering and burnishing - Artagain by Strathmore Good smooth surface but may not hold as many layers as other brands - Arches Hot Press 140# - Bristol Vellum More expensive but well regarded smooth paper. Personally I don't recommend a Bristol Vellum for our layering techniques as they are not textured enough to hold the pigment. Would be better suited for use with solvents.

All of these papers should be available on Amazon or at most art stores (not craft stores), or places that sell pencils.

When working with coloured pencils, especially softer wax-core brands like Prismacolor, breakage during sharpening is a common frustration. Hand-held sharpeners can often cause the core to snap, especially if there’s too much pressure or an uneven twist.

If you're using a hand-held sharpener, try this trick: rotate the sharpener instead of the pencil. This helps reduce stress on the pencil core and can prevent breakage.

For a more reliable option, consider switching to a battery-operated or mechanical hand-crank sharpener. These put much less strain on the pencil, helping preserve both the core and the outer barrel.

Recommended Sharpeners:

iPoint Orbit – Battery or electric versions available. Compact and widely loved.
Kent Sharpener – Battery-operated with two hole sizes to suit different pencil brands.
The Carl Angel-5 – A sturdy hand-crank model that gives a clean, centred point and is gentle on soft pencils.

These options help extend the life of your pencils and make colouring more enjoyable—without the frustration of broken leads!

Here is a handy video I've made on the best way to sharpen your pencils:

My classes teach how to blend just the pencils themselves without use of solvents or other tools. The main tool I'd recommend to add to your stash is the Colourless Blender Pencil. Paper is actually your most important tool to help with blending.

Blending Tools

Colourless Blender Pencils These are pigment-free pencils made from the same base (wax or oil) as your coloured pencils. They're used to help blend colours by pushing pigment into the paper. They're great for larger areas or adding texture, though not ideal for ultra-smooth finishes. Most brands have their own version, and I recommend picking one up for our classes if you'd like to explore the techniques I teach.
Paper Stumps (Tortillons) Rolled paper tools used similarly to a pencil to blend pigment. These can be sanded to refine the point for detail work. They work dry, or can be used with solvents (more on that below).
Cotton Tips (Q-tips) These can move pigment around like paper stumps, but their soft, rounded shape makes them less precise for fine detail.

Solvents (e.g., Gamsol / Odourless Mineral Spirits) These are traditionally used to break down coloured pencil pigment for a smooth, paint-like blend, often over large background areas. They reduce precision and can mute colour vibrancy, so we use them sparingly, if at all. Baby oil is sometimes used as a substitute. These were not actually commonly used by artists with their pencil work but have become more prevalent in modern colouring after some high profile youtube tutorials.

⚠️ Please note: We don’t use solvents in our classes. While they can create beautiful effects, frequent use, especially in enclosed spaces, can pose health risks. Even seemingly gentle options like baby oil aren’t ideal to inhale regularly. Solvents also have environmental downsides, so we prefer to teach blending with pencils alone. It’s safer, cleaner, and surprisingly effective with the right techniques and paper!

These tools are completely optional, and all lessons are beginner-friendly with or without them. You’ll learn techniques you can build on, without needing a huge stash!

White Gel or Paint Pens These are perfect for adding highlights, stars, shine, or small white details on top of your work. Cheaper gel pens can skip, especially over coloured pencil, so it's worth investing in a quality one.

My go-to gel pen: Uniball Signo fine point
My favourite paint pen: Molotow (1mm nib) Alternatively, you can use opaque white paint with a fine brush for the most coverage and control.

Alcohol Markers

If you are using digital stamps or images to colour you may run into problems where your printer ink is not compatible with the ink of alcohol markers. To know whether your printer is compatible, you may need to try printing an image on your marker cardstock, then colouring over a small section to see if the ink smears/bleeds.

If your printer ink bleeds, you can try the following tips below to see if it will help. If none of the below work for your printer, it may be good to invest in a compatible one :)

- Leave overnight to dry - Try heat-setting the ink with a hair dryer or heat gun - Print in draft or fast mode to use less ink on the printout

Below is a list of printers recommend by colourists that don't have any bleed with alcohol markers. Please note that I haven't personally tried these so can't guarantee their effectiveness - it is just based on the recommendations of others in our facebook group.

- Canon Pixma - typically the most used and all models compatible with markers. Comes in all different varieties, but can be as low as $30. I just have the cheapest one and have had it about 8 years now and no troubles with compatibility or cardstock).

- Any Laser printer as it heat sets the ink itself

- Epson workforce (prints up to 180gsm well but struggles with over 200gsm)

- HP Photosmart (some HP models are not compatible so please test first)

- Expson XP900

- HP Envy photo 6200

- Epson Ecotank Watercolours

Epson makes the only waterproof ink on the market on a selection of their printers.

If you are using a different printer, take a peek at our tips below to stop your ink from bleeding:

- Print in Fast Draft / Fast Grey Scale (lays down the least amount of ink to the paper)

- Change the opacity, (this will give a fainter line and less ink)

- Leave to dry overnight - Use an eraser over the dried image to remove excess ink

- Heat set it using a Heat Gun, if you don’t have a heat gun you can iron or use a hairdryer.

- Create a sandwich using two sheets of cardstock and add the digi sheet in between as your filling

- Heat set and leave overnight to dry

- Try a different water colour paper

- Try using a fixative spray

- Tracy's tip: For my HP Printer, I buy a compatible BLACK ink and only use this to print the digi’s. There is something in the pigment of the original ink that makes it run when water is applied. Pencils Any printer should be fine for standard pencil blending. if using solvent you may need to try the above troubleshooting methods to make sure your ink doesn't run.

Alcohol Markers

It is important to make sure you are using the right brand of stamping ink so it doesn't react with the ink in your markers. You will know if they are incompatible as the stamping ink will start to "bleed", that is it will smudge over your page and can ruin your markers.

Some of the inks that work best with alcohol markers are:

- Tsukineko Memento or Brilliance Ink (a personal favourite of most is the Memento Tuxedo Black)

- Ranger Distress Inks

- A Muse Dye

- Stewart Superior Palette Noir.

If your ink is bleeding, try the following tips before colouring:

- Try heat-setting your image before coloring.

- Add clear embossing powder to protect inks from bleeding. Avoid colored powders since they react with the markers.

Alcohol Markers are not compatible with solvent inks like StazOn, or Stampin' Up! inks

Watercolour Markers

- StazOn - Stampin' Up! - Ranger Archival Ink (ink must be permanent and water-proof)

Pencils

If you are using dry blending techniques with your pencils you can use any ink.

For solvent based blending use any of the inks that are compatible with alcohol markers above.

So now you have all of your supplies, it's time to find something to colour! There are so many options available of things you can colour and you might not have heard of them before. Here's a breakdown of what most people are colouring these days:

Rubber/Clear Stamps

Rubber stamping and card making go hand in hand and have been a popular choice of crafters for a long time.

- Many different brands available on the market and many that are rubber stamp only

- Fixed size but generally suitable for cardmaking or journalling/mixed media projects

- Versatile in application; can be stamped over different surfaces for effects

- Can use with embossing powder for interesting results and raised surfaces

- Can also come as a Clear Stamp - plastic Digital Stamps See below for how to resize digital stamps

- Versatile in terms of size - can make any size you are able to print

- A huge amount of variety available; you can generally find anything that you have in mind - More economical than rubber stamps - Special effects are limited to what you can print on

- Can merge images together in a computer program to create scenes

Colouring Books

Colouring books have had a huge revival over the past year.

- Large variety of styles emerging - Limited to the paper that the colouring book is printed on; eg. typically not suitable with alcohol markers as the cardstock isn't bleedproof - If the permissions for the book allows, you may be able to copy onto your favourite blending card for your personal use - Typically based on a more Art Therapy approach; basic patterns, shapes, mandelas which don't require much thought in terms of technique. Good for relaxing and mindfulness *please note - all stamps and colouring books that you purchase should always be for your own personal use. Never share these with anyone as you typically purchase a personal license for you only to use them. With digital stamps you should never take from google or pinterest without checking if the image is actually free before colouring - many artists have their work stolen on these sites which makes it hard for them to continue creating images.

Why should you watermark

Watermarking protects our art from being stolen and reused. Unfortunately, there have been instances where people print out someone's project, cut out the coloured image, and stick it on a card. They use this to get published and enter competitions.

If you are colouring up a half coloured image and the watermark is poor it can also be stolen and erased for someone to get the image for free. (Some companies have very strong policies about uploading half coloured images so make sure you peek at their terms of use :)

This is just a little bump in the road to posting online and can happen for every type of image you put online as they can be taken very easily and reused without your permission. It is however manageable nice and easily with a watermark :) Most stamp companies require you to watermark your work when uploading online, so even if you don't like to watermark, if you are using a stamp from a particular company it is good to see whether they require you to use one when posting online.

What is a watermark

Put simply, a watermark is something over your image that is easily recognisable as your name, brand, or logo to identify where your image has come from. It is generally placed over some part of the image that you don't want to be copied (Eg. your colouring) so that people can't print out and cut out easily as then they would see the watermark.

How to add a watermark

You can get snazzy watermarks made by companies that you add to your photo using whatever photo editing software you use. Software editing programs include: paint, photoshop, picmonkey, gimp, etc.

Places you can get snazzy watermarks: Nikki Adshead (via pm), Whimsy Stamps, just to name a few.

You can also make a watermark yourself if you have some basic graphic skills. Here is a tutorial using picmonkey which is my favourite free editing program: http://www.picmonkey.com/blog/claim-your-artistry-by-adding-a-watermark/ Here is Amanda's video if you want some tips aswell :http://www.lollilulucrafts.co.uk/2014/05/video-watermark-craft-photos/

On your phone or ipad there are apps you can use aswell. Make sure you position your watermark somewhere over your coloured image :)

If you feel like using watermarks is a bit complex, even a pencil or piece of card with your name on straight over a portion of the image will be an adequate solution.

Please find below a Kit and Clowder badge to add to your blogs or wherever you'd like to spread the word about Kit and Clowder. There are two formats - one square and one rectangle depending on the size you'd like.

Our web address to link back to is www.kitandclowder.com and if you ever want to direct people to certain areas, our free classes are just found on the homepage, colour blend charts are found under the Colour Blends tab, and important colour questions are found under the FAQs tab. . Thank you so much for your support everyone - I'm so grateful that you enjoy learning together and hope we can continue to for many years to come :)